Since I started this new sub-category last time I did Food & Wine, I thought I might continue it today. At many decent restaurants with a good wine menu, like Ocean Blue in Utica, they have a Salmon dish. One of the tastiest, in my opinion, is fresh Faroe Island Salmon, considered by many to be the “best salmon” in the world. At Ocean Blue, it’s simply grilled with olive oil, herbs, lemon, honey-roasted carrots, and sautéed spinach. Your local high end seafood place might do it slightly differently, but in my experience, no one “over does” fresh Faroe Island Salmon. When it’s that good, there’s no need to. What wine pairs best with this dish?
As you may remember, my “go to” seafood wine is a Spanish Albarino, especially for Sushi (unless you’re having Saki). Otherwise, I would normally recommend a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, like Kim Crawford with most seafood dishes. But in this case, I would suggest a French Burgundian Chardonnay (from Pouilly-Fuisse), like Louis Jadot, which usually sells in Reggie III’s range on a restaurant menu. A cheaper option, usually in Billy’s range, is Joseph Drouhin. But be careful, both come in cheaper & more expensive versions. Which ever one they sell, a decent Pouilly-Fuisse pairs well with this meal.
Why a Pouilly-Fuisse with fresh salmon? First of all, the French tend NOT to over oak their Chardonnays. So, in general, they tend to be milder with softer flavors. In the Maconnais district of Burgundy, they DO OAK their Chardonnays. But the result is this complex blend of flavors that are less acidic, exactly what you would expect from Burgundy. So, when you take an excellent fish, like fresh Faroe Island Salmon, and grill it in light sauces with a hint of lemon; it “calls for” a mellow, yet complex, slightly buttery white – like a Burgundian Pouilly-Fuisse. A case could be made for an UNOAKED Burgundian Chardonnay, which would be more acidic and not buttery at all. But, I prefer the Pouilly-Fuisse. Jouis Jadot & Joseph Drouhin sell both, so you may have options, depending on the restaurant. If not, just remember the difference between the two (Burgundian Chardonnay, no oak; Burgundian Pouilly-Fuisse, oak). Either would pair well with this popular fish dish.
That will do it for this one. Next time will be the Wine of the Month for August & it will be my last “refreshing” summer offering. Be sure to check it out and see what I choose. Cheers!